Roma an ‘institution’ in Whitehall

By Dan King

Whitehall natives will swear that The Roma, during its heyday, had the best pizza in the world; not New York City, not Chicago, not Italy … Whitehall. Lucia's

As Whitehall Village Trustee Walt Sandford put it, the Roma restaurant, regardless of its name, has been “an institution in this community.”

That “institution” began serving Whitehall one year after the end of World War II. Next year will mark the 70th year that a restaurant will exist at the address of 209 Broadway.

In 1946, the Grady family opened an Italian restaurant at the Route 4 location that was previously a home with an attached apartment. The restaurant, known as The Roma, quickly became a hot spot for locals and fostered copious Whitehall traditions.

“When I first came here, it was THE place to be,” said Heritage Director Carol Greenough. “People always said it was the best pizza on earth. I for one was fond of the pasta with white clam sauce.”

Greenough said that following village board meetings, officials would always go to the Roma. She said the Chamber of Commerce would hold meetings there and that events at Whitehall High School would always lead to a crowd meandering over to The Roma afterward.

“If there was a show at the school, when the kids got done they would change and get their make-up off as quick as they could, so they could rush over for food or a soda with everyone,” Greenough said.

One peculiar tradition that has stayed through various owners is the closing of the restaurant on Tuesdays.

“It was always closed on Tuesdays, which made Monday nights the busiest week nights,” said Beth Gugliotta, a former Roma employee.

The Gradys would own The Roma for 56 years, before it switched hands in 2002. From 2002-2012, the restaurant would operate under the same name, but under the ownership of Pat and Vicki Roche.

The Roches would continue on the same path to success as the Gradys.

In 2006, the Roches celebrated The Roma’s 60th year in business and would own the restaurant for six more years, until it became Lucia’s in 2012.

Dave and Roxanne Waters turned The Roma into Lucia’s in March of 2012 and kept it operational until selling it to the newest owners, David and Shelly Carpenter, last month.

The Carpenters will be renaming the business Cook Street, LLC, but will stick with many of the Italian themes of the restaurant, including the aspiration of making “the best pizza in the world.”

The days of operation for the new business will be Wednesday through Sunday.